Photo by Eliza RossLagoon blues, volcanic spires and the heart of French Polynesia
The Windward Islands are the core of French Polynesia's Society Islands, centred on Tahiti, the archipelago's gateway, and Moorea, its impossibly scenic sister across the Sea of the Moon. Jagged green peaks fall to turquoise lagoons ringed by reef, and a private villa on Moorea's shores at Haapiti, Teavaro or Temae puts that lagoon at the end of your garden, with concierge care for boats, guides and private chefs.
- Moorea's lagoon, among the clearest and most swimmable in the South Pacific
- Humpback whales offshore from July to November, with regulated in-water encounters
- Temae, Moorea's finest white-sand beach, facing the silhouette of Tahiti
- The Belvedere lookout over Cook's and Opunohu Bays and the pineapple-planted interior
- Private-pool villas on the lagoon with concierge-arranged boats, chefs and guides
Windward Islands in pictures
Events not to miss in Windward Islands
- July
Heiva i Tahiti
French Polynesia's greatest cultural festival fills Papeete with weeks of ori Tahiti dance, drumming, choral singing and traditional sports including outrigger racing and stone lifting. The essential window into Polynesian culture.
- July to November
Humpback whale season
Humpbacks migrate from Antarctica to calve in the sheltered waters around Tahiti and Moorea, and licensed operators offer regulated watching and in-water encounters. One of the world's most reliable whale seasons.
- August
Tahiti Pro Teahupo'o
The world's best surfers take on Teahupo'o, one of the heaviest waves on earth, at this Championship Tour event on Tahiti Iti. Watching from a boat in the channel is unforgettable.
- Early November
Hawaiki Nui Va'a
Polynesia's legendary three-day outrigger canoe race runs through the neighbouring Leeward Islands from Huahine to Bora Bora, and the build-up grips the whole territory. Worth planning around if you are island-hopping.
Windward Islands through the seasons
- Dry season (May – July)
Clearest lagoons and cool trade winds
The most settled weather of the year, with superb visibility for snorkelling and diving and comfortable evenings. Whale season begins in July alongside the Heiva festival.
- Late dry season (August – October)
Peak whale encounters
Humpback mothers and calves rest in the lee of Moorea and Tahiti, and regulated swim encounters are at their best. Surf, sailing and lagoon days remain reliable.
- Early wet season (November – January)
Green islands and festive quiet
Short tropical showers keep the peaks lush while the lagoon stays warm and swimmable. Outside the holiday weeks, villas and beaches are at their most private.
- Wet season (February – April)
Lush interiors and gentle pace
Waterfalls run full, fruit is abundant and the islands feel local and unhurried. Mornings are typically bright, ideal for lagoon outings before afternoon showers.
The Area and Where to Stay
The Windward group comprises Tahiti, Moorea and their smaller neighbours, the administrative and cultural heart of French Polynesia. Tahiti holds the capital, Papeete, the international airport and a wilder, less-visited south coast, while Moorea, twenty minutes away by fast ferry, is where most travellers choose to stay. The island's northern shore is cut by the twin fjord-like bays of Cook and Opunohu; Temae and Teavaro on the north-east corner offer the best beach and views back to Tahiti, while Haapiti on the west coast is quieter, with sunset light and a famous surf pass. Villas here sit directly on or above the lagoon, with private pools, open-air living and staff or concierge support, a more private alternative to the overwater resorts.
Things to Do
The lagoon is the playground. Snorkel with blacktip reef sharks and rays on Moorea's sandbanks, kayak or paddleboard from your villa, and take a guided boat to the reef passes where the coral is liveliest. From July to November, humpback whales calve in these waters and licensed operators run respectful whale-watching and swimming encounters. Ashore, drive or hike into the volcanic interior: the Belvedere lookout frames Cook's and Opunohu Bays, the Opunohu valley holds ancient marae temple platforms, and agricultural trails wind through pineapple fields. On Tahiti, tour Papeete's market, visit the surf mecca of Teahupo'o on the wild Tahiti Iti peninsula, and chase waterfalls on the east coast. Your concierge arranges private boats, 4x4 safaris and guides.
Food and Local Flavour
Polynesian and French traditions share the table here. The national dish, poisson cru, pairs raw tuna with lime and coconut milk, and lagoon fish, breadfruit, taro and mountain-grown pineapple anchor local menus. Papeete's roulottes, the waterfront food trucks, serve everything from grilled mahi-mahi to chow mein in convivial open air, while both islands hold refined French-Polynesian restaurants and beachside grills. Tahitian vanilla, among the world's most prized, flavours desserts and cocktails, and Hinano beer and fresh coconut water are the drinks of the lagoon. A private chef at your villa is the signature Windward Islands indulgence: market fish, villa-side barbecue and sunset over the reef.
When to Visit
The islands are warm year-round, with the climate split into a drier, cooler season from May to October and a warmer, more humid season from November to April, when brief tropical showers are more frequent. The dry season brings the clearest water and the most settled sailing weather, and it overlaps with whale season from July to November, the single best reason to time a visit. July also brings the Heiva festival, French Polynesia's great cultural celebration. The austral summer, December to March, is greener, quieter and lush, with excellent surf and lower villa demand outside the holidays. Whenever you come, mornings on the lagoon are the day's finest hours.
Getting There
All international routes arrive at Faa'a International Airport (PPT) on Tahiti, served by direct flights from Paris, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Auckland and Tokyo among others. Moorea is a 30-minute fast-ferry crossing from Papeete's terminal or a short hop by air to Moorea Temae (MOZ), whose runway sits beside Temae beach. On the islands, a hire car or villa driver makes exploring easy; Moorea's single coastal road loops the island in about an hour. The concierge can arrange private transfers, ferry tickets, helicopter connections and onward flights to Bora Bora and the Leeward Islands.




